How to read a cosmetic ingredient list (INCI)
How to read skincare ingredients: what INCI names mean, why order matters (and the 1% rule), what aqua, parfum and CI numbers stand for, and claims to ignore.
By the Green Point editorial teamUpdated 6 min readKey takeaways
- Cosmetic ingredients are listed with standardized INCI names, so the same ingredient has the same name on products worldwide.
- Ingredients above 1% appear in descending order of amount; those at 1% or less can be listed in any order after them.
- Aqua is water, CI followed by a number is a colorant, and parfum (or fragrance) is a blend of many substances under one word.
- Front-of-pack words like "natural", "clean" or "hypoallergenic" have no legal definition, so the ingredient list is what counts.
On this page
A cosmetic ingredient list uses INCI names, a standard naming system, and lists ingredients from the largest amount to the smallest. Ingredients making up 1% or less can follow in any order, and colorants (often shown as CI numbers) can come last. Start with the first five ingredients, which usually make up most of the product, then look for fragrance, allergens and actives.
What is an INCI list?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It gives each ingredient one standard name, so "sodium hyaluronate" or "tocopherol" means the same thing whether you buy a cream in Paris, Chicago or Tokyo. Many INCI names are scientific (for example, "butyrospermum parkii butter" for shea butter), and plant extracts use Latin botanical names.
In the EU and the US, the list must be on the packaging, usually on the box or the back of the bottle, after the word "Ingredients". The European Commission runs a public database of INCI names called CosIng, which also shows whether an ingredient is restricted in EU law.
Are ingredients listed in order of concentration?
Partly. EU and US rules both require ingredients to be listed in descending order: the ingredient present in the largest amount comes first. But there are two important exceptions:
- The 1% line: ingredients present at 1% or less may be listed in any order after the ingredients above 1%. You can't tell exactly where that line falls, but preservatives, fragrance and many actives usually sit below it.
- Colorants: in both regions, color additives can be listed in any order at the end of the list, whatever their amount.
This is why an ingredient's position is a clue, not a measurement. Niacinamide fifth on the list probably means a meaningful amount; a botanical extract after the preservative probably means a small one.
What does aqua mean on a label?
Aqua is the INCI name for water, and it's the first ingredient in most creams, lotions, serums and shampoos. You'll often see "Aqua/Water/Eau" to cover several languages. Water isn't a cheap filler: it dissolves other ingredients and creates the texture of a cream. Its presence is also why water-based products need preservatives.
| On the label | What it means |
|---|---|
| Aqua | Water |
| Parfum, Fragrance, Aroma | A fragrance or flavor blend, often of many substances |
| CI 77891, CI 77491 and other CI numbers | Colorants (Colour Index numbers); these two are titanium dioxide and iron oxides |
| (nano) | The ingredient is present as a nanomaterial (EU labeling) |
| +/- or "may contain" | Colorants that may be present in some shades of a makeup range |
| Limonene, linalool, citronellol, geraniol | Fragrance allergens named separately |
| Butyrospermum parkii butter | Shea butter |
| Tocopherol | Vitamin E |
Parfum on the label: what fragrance can hide
Under EU rules, perfume and aromatic blends are listed simply as parfum or aroma. In the US, they can be listed as "fragrance". One word can stand for dozens of substances, and fragrance is one of the most common causes of allergic reactions to cosmetics.
The EU requires certain fragrance allergens, such as limonene, linalool and citronellol, to be named in the ingredient list when they are present above 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products. The EU has also expanded that list of allergens, with the new rules being phased in. In the US, fragrance components generally don't have to be named, although a 2022 law directs the FDA to create rules for labeling fragrance allergens. Our guide to fragrance allergens in cosmetics explains what to look for.
"Unscented" doesn't mean fragrance-free: it can mean a masking fragrance was added to cover the smell of other ingredients. Plant oils and essential oils can also contain fragrance allergens.
Marketing claims vs the ingredient list
The front of the pack is advertising. The back is regulated information. Many common claims have no legal definition:
- "Hypoallergenic": the FDA says there are no federal standards or definitions for the term, and companies don't have to submit evidence for it.
- "Natural", "clean", "non-toxic": no legal definition in the US; brands set their own rules.
- "Dermatologist tested": says a test happened, not what the result was.
- "Free from" claims: tell you what isn't in the product, not whether what replaced it is better. See our guide to whether parabens are safe for an example.
How to read skincare ingredients in 5 steps
- Read the first five ingredients. They usually make up most of the product and tell you whether it's rich (oils, butters) or light (water, glycerin).
- Find the actives the product is sold on, such as niacinamide, retinol or salicylic acid, and check that they're not at the very end.
- Look for fragrance and named allergens if your skin is sensitive or you have a known allergy.
- Check preservatives and other ingredients you personally want to avoid.
- Ignore the front-of-pack claims until the ingredient list backs them up.
For a full walkthrough of checking products, read how to check if your cosmetics are safe.
Frequently asked questions
Why are some ingredient names in Latin?
INCI uses Latin botanical names for plant ingredients, such as "Butyrospermum Parkii Butter" for shea butter or "Centella Asiatica Extract" for cica. Using the scientific name avoids confusion between common names that differ by country or language. It lets people anywhere in the world identify the same plant, which matters if you're allergic to it.
What does the open jar symbol on cosmetics mean?
The open jar symbol with a number and "M" (for example, 12M) shows the period after opening: how many months the product stays safe to use once opened. In the EU, products that keep for more than 30 months carry this symbol, while products that last 30 months or less must show a "best before" date instead.
Does the first ingredient make up most of the product?
Usually it's the largest single ingredient, but not necessarily the majority. In creams and lotions, water often makes up a large share. In oils, balms or powders, the first ingredient may be an oil, wax or mineral. The list tells you the order of amounts, not the actual percentages.
Why is a "hidden" ingredient missing from the list?
Components of fragrance blends don't all have to be named, and US rules let companies use "and other ingredients" for an ingredient the FDA accepts as a trade secret. Products used only by professionals may also be exempt from listing ingredients. If you need to know about a specific ingredient for medical reasons, contact the manufacturer.
Sources
- Cosmetics Labeling GuideU.S. Food and Drug Administration
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (consolidated text)EUR-Lex
- "Hypoallergenic" CosmeticsU.S. Food and Drug Administration
- Cosmetic ingredient database (CosIng)European Commission
This guide is for general information and is not medical advice. If you have a skin, allergy or health concern, talk to a doctor, dermatologist or dietitian. Green Point scores and Skin Scan results are informational and are not a diagnosis.
