Centella asiatica (cica): what it does for your skin

Centella asiatica, sold as cica, is a plant extract used in skincare to calm and comfort skin. Its active compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid) are studied for anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and wound-healing effects. Most evidence comes from lab and animal research, with small human studies, so it is best seen as a gentle soothing ingredient.

What is cica?

Centella asiatica is a small creeping plant that grows in wet areas across Asia and other warm regions. It goes by several names: gotu kola, Indian pennywort and tiger grass. It has been used for centuries in traditional Asian medicine, especially on wounds and skin conditions.

"Cica" is a marketing shorthand, usually traced to the French word for wound healing, "cicatrisation". It became popular through Korean skincare and is now printed on creams, balms, toners and masks worldwide. "Cica" isn't an official ingredient name, though, so the label is only a clue. The ingredient list tells you what is actually inside.

The active compounds: madecassoside and asiaticoside

The plant's key ingredients are a group of compounds called triterpenoids. On an ingredient list (INCI), centella can appear in several forms:

• Centella Asiatica Extract or Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract: the whole-plant or leaf extract
• Madecassoside: a purified compound studied for calming and barrier support
• Asiaticoside: a purified compound studied for collagen production and wound repair
• Asiatic Acid and Madecassic Acid: related compounds often used together in purified blends
• Centella Asiatica Leaf Water: a lighter water-based form

Purified compounds give a brand more control over the dose. A plain extract contains a mix whose strength varies with the plant's origin and how it was processed.

Centella asiatica benefits: what the evidence says

Centella is one of the better-researched plant extracts in skincare, but it's important to know what kind of research that is. Reviews describe:

• Soothing and anti-inflammatory effects: in lab studies, madecassoside reduced inflammatory signals in cells.
• Wound healing: many animal studies show faster healing; human trials are fewer and small.
• Collagen support: asiaticoside has been linked to collagen production in skin cells, and a small six-month trial in 20 women found improved firmness, elasticity and hydration with a topical madecassoside and vitamin C product.
• Antioxidant activity: shown mainly in lab and animal work.

A 2021 review of centella in skin disease concluded that the lab and animal evidence is encouraging, but that clinical studies are sparse and longer, well-controlled human trials are still needed. In plain terms: centella is a sensible, gentle ingredient for comfort and support, not a treatment that will clear acne or erase scars on its own.

Centella for redness and sensitive skin

Centella is most popular with people whose skin feels reactive. It suits you if your skin is:

• Sensitive or easily irritated by fragrance, actives or the weather
• Red or blotchy after cleansing or exfoliating
• Dry or tight, or recovering from a damaged skin barrier
• Irritated by actives such as retinoids or acids, where a simple calming moisturizer helps you keep going
• Acne-prone, as a gentle extra alongside proven acne ingredients

If redness is your main concern, read our guide on why your face gets red. Persistent redness can be rosacea, which needs a diagnosis rather than a new cream. For reactive skin in general, the sensitive skin guide covers common triggers to remove first.

How to use a cica cream or serum

1. Check where centella sits in the ingredient list. If it appears near the end, after the fragrance, the product may contain very little.
2. Look for a short, fragrance-free formula, especially if your skin is sensitive. A plant extract won't help much if the cream also contains several irritants.
3. Patch test for a few days on a small area, as with any new product.
4. Use it morning and/or night after cleansing. Serums go before moisturizer; creams and balms go last at night or before sunscreen in the morning.
5. Pair it freely: centella works alongside niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramides, retinoids and acids.

Side effects and who should be careful

Centella is generally well tolerated and side effects are rare. Like any plant extract, it can occasionally cause an allergic reaction, with itching, burning or a rash. Stop using the product if that happens.

Gotu kola is also sold as an oral supplement. That is a different use with different safety questions, so don't assume a supplement is suitable because a cream is. Ask a doctor or pharmacist before taking it, especially if you're pregnant or take medication.