What does niacinamide do for your skin?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that helps your skin in several quiet ways. Studies suggest it supports the skin barrier, reduces oiliness, calms redness and blotchiness, and fades dark spots by limiting how pigment reaches surface skin cells. It is gentle, well tolerated and combines easily with other skincare.

Niacinamide benefits: what the research shows

Niacinamide (also called nicotinamide) is one of the better-studied cosmetic ingredients, though many trials are small and some are funded by manufacturers. Here is what the evidence supports so far:

• Stronger skin barrier. It increases the production of ceramides and other barrier lipids in lab studies and has been shown to reduce water loss from the skin, which helps dry and sensitive skin. See our guide to repairing a damaged skin barrier.
• Less oil. A 2% niacinamide moisturizer reduced facial sebum after 4 to 6 weeks in one trial.
• Fewer breakouts. In one study a 4% niacinamide gel worked about as well as a 1% antibiotic gel for mild to moderate acne.
• Fading dark spots. It slows the transfer of pigment from the cells that make it to surface skin cells. In studies, 5% reduced hyperpigmented spots more than a plain cream, while 2% didn't reach a clear result.
• Redness and tone. Trials report improvements in red blotchiness, sallowness and texture.
• Fine lines. Studies at 5% found modest improvements in fine lines and wrinkles over about 12 weeks.

Niacinamide for pores and oily skin

Pores look bigger when they are stretched by oil and debris. By reducing sebum, niacinamide may help pores look smaller and skin look less shiny. It won't shrink pores permanently, because their size is largely genetic. For a full plan, read how to minimize large pores.

For oily, acne-prone skin, niacinamide pairs well with salicylic acid: the acid clears inside the pores while niacinamide helps with oil and redness.

How much niacinamide do you need?

Most clinical studies use 2% to 5%, and many cosmetics contain 4% to 5%. Products with 10% or more are popular, but there is little evidence they work better, and higher strengths are more likely to sting or cause redness in sensitive skin.

Can you use niacinamide and vitamin C together?

Yes. You may read that niacinamide and vitamin C cancel each other out or cause flushing. That idea comes from older lab experiments with pure ingredients and heat, not from how today's skincare is made or used, and many products now combine the two. Both can help with dark spots, so they make a good team.

If your skin gets red or tingly when you layer them, simply split them up: vitamin C in the morning and niacinamide at night, or the other way around.

Niacinamide with other actives

• Retinol: a good match. Niacinamide may make retinoids easier to tolerate, and some products combine them.
• Exfoliating acids (AHA, BHA): fine together; apply the acid first.
• Hyaluronic acid and moisturizers: no problems at all.

Our guide to skincare ingredients you shouldn't mix covers the combinations that do need care.

How to use niacinamide in your routine

1. Cleanse and pat your skin dry.
2. Apply any exfoliating acid or vitamin C serum first, if you use one.
3. Apply niacinamide serum, a few drops for your whole face, or use a moisturizer that contains it.
4. Finish with moisturizer, plus sunscreen in the morning.

You can use it morning, night or both. Once a day is enough for most people. Expect to wait 8 to 12 weeks for visible changes in dark spots or tone; oil control may show sooner.

Niacinamide side effects

Topical niacinamide is well tolerated at usual strengths. Some people get mild redness, itching, stinging or dryness, more often with 10% or higher products or when layering many actives at once. Cut back to once a day or every other day, or switch to a lower strength.

Don't confuse it with niacin (nicotinic acid), another form of vitamin B3 taken as a supplement, which is known for causing flushing. Topical niacinamide doesn't work the same way.